Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Starboard Side Deck / Grab Rail Removal

     Having the Westsail 32 so close to home provides the opportunity to seize even a couple hours work from a day.  While I was restoring the Sea Sprite 23 (Froonie), because of the half-hour drive to just get to the project, my workdays were often 7+ hours – making it necessary that I plan for my workday.  While I really do need to begin putting some serious hours in on the W32, so far I have been stealing two hours here and 3 hours there from a typically busy schedule – a busy professional pursuing a master degree is a recipe for no spare time! 

     Well, I was able to concede another couple of hours on Sunday.  My focus for this short work session was to continue to remove the loose, cracking gelcoat from the starboard side deck.  After sanding the starboard side deck on Feb. 25th, more areas of concern were revealed and would require another “once-over” with the chisel.  I spent roughly 70% of my time on the gelcoat removal, and failed to take pictures of my progress.  Not to worry, just refer to my earlier posts for the visual explanation.
     After I wrapped up my work with the chisel, essentially prepping the area for another round of sanding with the PC 7335, I switched gears and worked on the removal of the starboard grab rails.   




      Working with just a few hand tools (scratch awl, flat head screwdriver, and a utility knife), I worked my way forward removing the three grab rails.  The removal was very straightforward:  remove bung, dig out detritus, remove philips-head screw, and then gently remove the rail.









     The teak grab rails were extremely weathered; not in the usual “nice weathered looking teak” way, but with the rails splitting along the grain in several places.  It was very apparent to me that the rails would need to be replaced.  A lot of the bright work on the Sea Sprite was saved through a TSP wash, sanding, oiling, and varnish; however, most of the woodwork on the W32 will need replacement.  Simple neglect will cause such a thing.






     The picture here is of the forward most rail.  Very little bedding compound existed beneath the teak grab rail, though there was some sealant used between the screw head and the bung.  This sealant used within the bunged screw was hard and brittle, and was removed without too much fuss – not sure what this sealant was.  Despite the curious lack of bedding compound between the rail and cabin roof, I found no sign of compromised core by sounding the surface.  Future installation of new grab rails will be done in such a way to protect the core from any potential water intrusion – over drill of top skin and core, fill will thickened epoxy, drill and tap for machine screw fasteners.

     Three rails were removed today, with 13 screws; aft rail (7 screws), middle rail (6 screws), forward rail (3 screws) - 2” #6 or #8.

Work Date: February 26th, 2012; 2 hrs.

5 comments:

  1. So what are you going to use to rebed them? And are you just going to screw them straight back in or will you fill the holes with epoxy and then redrill?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Tate, I will likely use Boatlife Life-Caulk - a permanently flexible polysulfide sealant / bedding compound. I will absolutely over-drill, fill with epoxy, and tap for screws. It is essential that you isolate the core from any potential water ingress. Water, over time, has a way of finding entry, and the last thing I want to do is pull the top skin and recore.

    Cheers!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Brian, I am curious about the awning over the boat. How high from the ground is it? Do you have standing headroom to walk the side decks? I would like to do something similar, but am concerned about drawing attention with the height.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Robert, the cover is essentially one of those RV garages, with open walls. The roof comes down the sides roughly 18", the ends are open completely. The dimensions are 40' in length, 16' in width, and about 17' to 18' in height (to the peak). There is almost full standing headroom, but I'm 6'2"...overall, this structure provides a great work area without building a full-on workshop. I do plan to extend covering down the sides and ends to better facilitate contaminate-free work conditions.

    ReplyDelete